December 1, 2012

• just saw it.

  okay for those of you lot who like online living, here’s my entry into said world for actual needs.

  my script is real real big now.  so let’s go shopping for rx glasses shall we?

  -36 diopter left: -42 right.  it’s a VERY simple but huge script.

  early indications of what this means and prior experience of known techniques are:

  keep it closer to circular/oval not all circular as john lennon or harry potter lenses according to red dwarf are “and him in the child molester glasses” a bad stigma.

  double concave lenses will occur

  they look like (the BOTTOM example)

   

   

  

  I want you to note that per this example which occurs in reality that edge all the around the lense can and will act like a wedge or knife

  

   

  Now, lets go note how this works for some of you but rarely me

  http://www.39dollarglasses.com/step2.html

  I’m not being mean or facetiously about the choice of this particular company, because in truth my frames aren’t required to be particularly expensive  – but this so far is the company with the largest  ability to make perscriptions found… and is? 350% incapable of serving me. 42/12 is 3.5 or 350%

  now I haven’t worn plastic frames since 93/94 lenscrafter in 1998 was able ONCE to make my eyewar in such a fashion that I had mylar coated or mirrored sunglasses.  priorto them but the jerks went out of business, benson optical took care of my needs.  after lenscrafter  I used the in doctor’s office approach for thee best in eyewear care. and what was $534 mirrored sunclasses  went up to $614 clear…they couldn’t manufacture them to allow for mylar as the ground around on the lense after applying the coating…ra ra ruin my day .

  now don’t be daunted, I know up front the next pair of coke-bottles will be just that extremely thick.

  pearle vision targets $500-550 a pair of inexpensive glasses within the 70 dollar frame, figure the rest out.

  I have roughly 8 frames in that store to choose from.

  initial logic says get thick plastic frames. I’ve worn wire ones for nearly 20 so do not be fooled, they can do it,  

  this price does NOT include coatings, rolling/polishing *grinds the edge safely and any dyeing of the lense.

   

  1.66 refractive  HIGH index plastic is the only upsell likely and I warn you know, they make my lenses bigger not smaller because they can make the minimum  part or the prescription part smaller but the well is much deeper or my lenses far thicker at the edges.   make no mistake my lenses will at the edges be over 2 centimeters thick with this new script.  far thicker than any coke bottle. and thus lets skip the glass option as I WANT to continue with my nose un-flattened.

   and thus we begin.  (sure, I’ll shop the measurements of pupil placement frame size/length

  currently the current set up is a charmont dusty gold (dg) 50 square 19 135mm frame with cfx or memory metal nose correct back flexibility model cx7252 made in japan. the temple pieces themselves do not have spring loaded hinges as the nose piece does that. 

  due to the length of the lense, often it is dyed on the edges so as to not shine out so conspicuously.

  the lenses are a blended maya disc fadeaway type versus strictly double-concave lenses

  

  note the myodisc is jest that a disc of the entire prescription around the eye to allow a greater field of prescription as it lessons  outwards.  my current prescription is a blended myodisc.  meaning the edges of the disc are chopped off. thus I have a squarer frame smaller lenses and thus much better lateral movement as in side to side just less top to bottom..  everything is a trade.  and  now, look at the edge of the lens prescription and the lenses itself edge.  you can clearly see this lens isn’t dyed to blend into the frame meaning I have more of a jewelry effect….you cant ever hide the disc part of that effect but one can soften the edges at least  

  all of this is an upcharge.

  next let’s discuss what that coatings stuff is,  pardon me if I forget but anti-uv, scratch resistance and anti-reflective coatings are the chaching. anti-reflective or anti-glareAND scratch resistance (they’re incompatible) mean Idont sparkle myself blind andI get 2-3 years clear enough visioncorrection or they’re wrecked in 6-8 months.. I wear allcotton to cutdown on damage from ncorrect cleaning but as I’ve bought these things before, let me tell you with correct soft proper type cloth and lenses cleaner its not much more safe to de-dust.  Ididn’t get more wear time.

   

  mylar is a mirrory coating that if the outter portion of the lenses is NOT much depper than a millameater with crisp edges I can have the fancy mirrored effect  I actually do not need more than tat for tint. 11% is almost coal dark on my lenses.  again due to contruction, its notan option…however cool.

  

  note the crisp edge requirement but also the uniform shape  – if the edges have to be ground in final finishing, the micro thing film is shreded.

   

  anti glar I know up front is iridescent pink and green… yes, I can detect that stuff and thus it cuts down slightly on brighter lighting shining off my surfaces making it hard to see because hey you’ll  stuff, you will, the edges can be far brighter and thus distractive.

   

  now-

  the rules are, I try to look good and yet most just see lenses and go gah.

   

  don’t, try to take a picture of me and figure out shapes and colors – you can do this well maybe not but it really is a shame you aren’t here to help me shop.

  • 5:03 pm
  • 6 Comments